When the season is over, or if you are not going to ski again for a certain amount of time (several weeks/months), it is key to follow some steps to preserve and extend the life of your gear. The equipment, particularly in skiing, is crucial. This is a quick -yet complete- and easy guide you can follow up to preserve your gear.
1) Clean and dry out them completely. ski gear storage
2) Inspect for repairs to do at the base, top sheet, and edges. Check the top sheets for damage. Gummy stone for taking out the rust in the bevels is very important. On tip on preventing rusting: when we finish each ski day, we must let the skis dry out completely, apart from each other (never put the straps right after you stop skiing because they trap the moisture and can rust the edges in the places where the straps are placed).
3) Strong (3-times the regular amount) waxing without scrapping to isolate the base. Use an all-temperature (AKA “universal”) or a softer warm-weather wax. This heavy coat of wax protects the base from “drying out” during summer and losing its wax absorbing capacity. Before using the skis again, make a pass with the iron to soften the old wax, and scrape it all off while it’s still warm. Then wax again with new wax and scrape…
4) Store them in the natural position, with straps not too tight, laying on their sides. Because skis have cambers and rockers, you need to ensure that they aren’t compressed at all. So try not to place the straps too tight nor leaving the skis landing flat on their bases. The easiest solution is often just storing them on their sides and sliding them under the bed (as in this post featured image).
5) Store in a cool dry place (out of direct sunlight that can damage the top sheets). If you have to store them in the garage, elevate the skis off of the cement floor. Best not to store skis in a bag.
_For transportation: the skis should be wrapped around with four ski straps (two at the shovels and two at the tails) to prevent rubbing and scratching each other. IMPORTANT: the two main straps must be placed tightly right in the place where the two shovels (and the two tails) contact their bases with each other. Furthermore, the remaining two straps placed near the bindings must be loose enough. This is to make sure the straps do not distort the natural curvature of the ski (camber and rocker profiles). In high-level skiing, every detail matters…
1) Check binding screws and tighten if needed. On skis with a riser plate, we must remove the bindings and first tighten the screws that secure the plate to the ski.
2) Document the DIN settings in use, of both bindings. I recommend writing it down on tape and sticking it to the shovel of the ski.
3) Back off the DIN scale to the lowest release/retention setting (but not less than that, because there is a risk of spring losing). Relaxing the spring tension while they are in storage is key to extend the life of your bindings.
4) Lock the heel in the up (closed) position, so the spring stays unloaded (compressed).
1) Completely dry out them, removing the boot liner from the outer shell, and then put them together again.
2) Check all the screws (cuff and buckles), tighten up any loose ones as needed.
3) Check the soles of your boots for wear, and replace if needed/possible. Prevent unwanted wear to the bottom of your boots by allways attaching Cat Tracks® before walking. Walking with these prtectors is easier and safer too.
4) Make sure the tongue is in the correct position and buckle the boots back up with low tension (but not so loose that they unbuckle themselves) for storage. This is done so the plastic shell keeps its shape (remember plastic has “memory”), and also prevents the buckles from catching on everything.
5) Store in a cool dry place.
IMPORTANT: all screws loosen with time and / or use. Always readjust everything before the ski season.
See you on the slopes!